The BYUH alumnus says that you have to deal with the fear of being calm while surfing so that you can get to the surface.


It is important to respect when learning to surf.

Photo by Emery Majors


If you’re learning how to surf, here are some tips from Janna Irons in an online magazine article called “A Beginner’s Guide to Surfing.”

Step One


Finding a Beginner’s Place The first thing the Irons offer is to go to the starting spots, and before swimming, be sure to watch the 30-minute surf to see how the waves break. good places for beginners near campus and on the North Coast.

The second step


It’s important to know the rights of the wave, as well as understand the rules and respect them, Irons says. Surfing etiquette is important to understand that a wave involves only one person. Irons says the surfer who is closest to the break takes the right path (or “wave rider”) and flies away from the break.

The third step


Find a foam board and go for it! Amanda Penrod, an adult from Oceanside, California who specializes in English, suggested that if you’re a new surfer, borrow a soft / foam board. “If you don’t have any friends to go with you, one of them is a lesson, but the other option is to do it and watch other people surf,” he said.

BYUH graduate Katie Mover of Boise, Idaho agreed. When she first learned to surf, her sister-in-law instructed her once, and then every time she went out with her brother, she would leave him to sort it out on her own, Mover said.

Overcoming fear


The fear of surfing “just came from watching people and trying and making mistakes,” Mover said. Penrod said that although he loves surfing, there is sometimes fear. His remedy is to “be present and watchful, and be full of faith. It helps to pray, ”he said.

“Meeting, taking a deep breath, and throwing yourself on the ground can help allay fears.”

“Know that fear is permissible”


Maver said his family friend often says, “At the end of the day, it’s just water” and the wave passes over you. You may be injured while surfing, but “learn to surf. You just have to be good with it. … Hug the water, she said.

Mover explained that if he falls and stays under the waves, he will try to relax and stay calm instead of tense. Finally, “I’ll get up, find the ground again, and I’ll be fine.”

If someone loves the water, loves being outside, and loves being active, there’s no reason they shouldn’t try surfing, he said. “It’s a great way to relax.” However, Mover warned that if you are inexperienced, don’t go for bigger waves.

Penrod is added with more experience, brings more comfort. For him, human understanding is all in God’s hands, helping him to relax. Mover said his favorite time is for surfing in the sunset hours. “The water reflects the colors and you can enjoy the beautiful sunset there,” he said. “It’s no better.”

Go there and try!


Nicole Whiteley, a junior communications student from Saratoga Springs, Utah, said she first surfed last fall semester. “I promise you’ll regret leaving,” she explained, despite her fears of drowning and whales.

She said she would try to get out of her comfort zone while in Ha- \ waii. “Live life to the fullest and experience new things, because that’s the whole point of life … [to] learn and grow, ”Whiteley said.

During the first surf, Whiteley was unable to catch the wave, but she said her experience had led her to start aiming to go to the gym and get stronger.

On her first day, a wave came and Whiteley’s surfboard was named enough that the wave would overturn her. At first, she was depressed, but after the first time she fell into the water, she said she felt more comfortable after that.

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